Today was one of those rare mornings in Porto, when I have opened my eyes and the sky was grey, not blue. Actually, in 73 days, since I am here, I have counted maybe 7 such days that started with grey, but turned into blue eventually. I read somewhere that Portugal is one of the sunniest countries in Europe and now, ladies and gentelmen, I have some empirical evidence. It keeps on ringing in my head – sun sun sun. I am still on my streak of summer days (since last October after landing in Thailand).
I guess, I finally can say that I live in Porto. Something symbolical happened, almost like a baptising. I was expecting it sooner or later and yet yesterday was THE day, when finally a seagulls poop landed on my hand. After 2,5 month I became one of many people in Porto, who share the same destiny. Yep, life of a local.
But really, do I feel like a local already? Of course not. Among other things, the language plays an important role here. Though I do understand a lot of Portuguese (I didn’t expect that there are so many things in common with English – situação, confirmação, impressão, atenção, comunicação etc…), but not mastering the local language is something new and challenging for me. When I moved to live in Germany, I already spoke fluent German and felt sympathy for those who were struggling to order a beer. “Era uma cerveja, por favor”. I am getting there. Try me after the intense A2 course (will be done in November)! I bet, then I will be able to order the whole stuffed turkey with the sides and rosmarine and no pumpkin, pleaaaaase…
People talk – in the last 10 years Porto has changed a lot! I can believe them. I first came here in early spring 2011. Could be because of the time of the year, but it felt much calmer and emptier, partly abandoned. Now I actually avoid going downtown, where all of the touristy buzz is. Tourism brought money and actually helped Portugal to overcome the economic crisis, but we all know what else most of the tourists bring – selfiesticks, noise and themselves, which results in big crowds. Not only that, more and more foreigners (including Madonna) move to Portugal to live (did I tell you that it’s sunny 90% of the time?..), which has increased the rents. Actually, I was quite shocked to see the prices online – hardly any options below 10€/sq meter a bit closer to the city center in Porto. Of course, real locals (not like me) find some cheaper offers through their social networks.
Now it is time to complain a bit, since my first post from Porto was overly positive, there has to be some balance after all. Cycling and bicycle lanes – poor situation here. I was used to cycle in Berlin, Vilnius and already tried it here, but I must admit that it is quite challenging and not only because Porto is hilly and there is stone paving in many streets. Few weeks ago I accidentally bought my bike from the organiser of the “Crytical mass” in Porto and had a chance to discuss the situation. Since many years, he is trying to encourage people to cycle more (has also established a bike rental-sale-repair shop), but, according to him, Portuguese still don’t see bicycles as a proper mean of transportation and might even look down to cyclists, as if they don’t earn enough to buy a car. There are only few cyclists – to the last crytical mass arrived 5 people (tragical mass) – infrastructure is also not well developed. Situation is slowly changing, I was told. Gladly the road from my home to the ocean is pretty decent and it took me only 25 minutes to reach the Atlantic. Dear Portuguese, who are reading this, tell me, what is your opinion, experience regarding cycling?
To end on a nice note (literally) I would suggest you to listen to this wonderful Portuguese singer:
pavejui.wordpress.com 